This report is of a trip I took in June of 2000, it was utterly fantastic even with all the "incidents".

Saskatchewan River Crossing is a small place, one store which combines a restaurant, a grocery store and a gas station.  It is a modern store but being in a remote location the prices are much higher than you'd pay elsewhere (well except for at the top of Sunwapta pass but I'll talk about that later). BUT, what a gorgeous setting.  Approximately half ways between Jasper and Banff, in the heart of the Rocky Mountains, situated on the backbone of those mountains - you get the idea.

This ride starts in Calgary, heads North towards Rocky Mountain House on Highway 22, then West to Saskatchewan River Crossing, then North on the Ice fields Parkway (highway 93) to Sunwapta pass, turn around and south on highway 93 down to Lake Louise, then back on the Trans-Canada highway to Calgary.  Total mileage is about 750 kilometers but of that, the ride up to Sunwapta pass and back comprises 100 kilometers so without that, the trip is cut back to 650 kilometers.  But, taking that in extends the trip and when I rode it, it took just around 10 hours for the 750 kilometers.

I started in Calgary from my house in the Southwest part of town at about 9:30 AM.  Clear skies, no wind, temps in the teens in other words, IDEAL riding conditions for around here.  You'll want to have a full tank of gas in Calgary as it is just a bit over 200 kilometers to the next stop.  I headed over to the West part of town and decided to get a little spirited riding in.  So, off along Banff Coach Road.  Go west on Bow Trail, up the hill and stay on this road as it passes to the South of Canada Olympic Park.  As you ride along take the first right onto Banff Coach road and you'll find yourself on a road with some 90 degree corners.  These are posted at 40KPH.  In some cases you have good visibility and if you want to drag a peg can take these corners at more than double the posted speed.  Be aware that the speed limit through here is 60KPH although to date I haven't seen anyone patrolling the area.  I tend to go faster through the corners and slow down on the straight aways "just in case".  Continuing on, you'll eventually cross the Trans Canada super slab.  Go ahead, cross it!  The road continues to wind along and you'll shortly see a "T" intersection, turn left (at the time of writing, traffic coming from your left has to yield if they want to go straight through).  Follow this road along as far as you can.  On the way you'll pass by the SpringBank airport and an unusual "farm".  This farm / ranch has miniature horses and buffalo! (and buffalo meat for sale).  At the end of the road you'll see a right / left corner section and you'll be presented with yet another "T" intersection.  this is Highway 22, our route for the next couple of hours.  You've come about 25 kilometers or so from Calgary.  Turn RIGHT (North) to follow the highway into Cochrane!

Just after turning right, check out the flag at the top of the hill on the left, the day I took this trip it was standing still!  This is somewhat remarkable and only the second time I've seen it not horizontal!  Continue on into Cochrane and go through the two sets of lights, keeping on Highway 22 heading North.  The speed limit on this road is 100KPH, I tend to ride within about 10% of that speed (indicated) and rarely meet RCMP but I've seen them some times.  Besides, on this part of the road you're out for a leisurely ride.  The Mountains are prominent to your right.  In June, their white caps sparkle brightly in the sunlight and you'd better have your sunglasses on!  To the right, rolling foothills giving way to the prairies.  Again, in June, the land is all pretty and green with the crops bursting forth in their greenery.  Different shades depending upon the crop and of course some areas freshly ploughed with the dark earth contrasting against the profusion of greenery.  Although this is a main road, you may find farm machinery on it from time to time.  This is a straight road with few corners and very long sight lines.  DON'T be lulled into a false sense of security.  Deer, gophers, skunks, coyotes and other animals are around you!  In June, the little baby gophers are out trying to run across the road (I have no idea why), some make it, some don't.  The crows feast on the ones that don't. You'll pass by towns with names like "Dogpound", and come to a "T" intersection at highway 27, right is "Olds" but we want to turn left (West) towards Sundre.  As you go through Sundre and reach the West side of town, look for the signs for highway 22 North (to Caroline and Rocky Mountain House), you'll want to turn Right on this highway.  During my June trip, I had started out in ideal weather.  That changed about this point of the ride as I was able to see some vary large, dark clouds ahead of me and to the West but hey, I'm out for a ride right?

Heading North on highway 22, you'll again hit a "T" intersection and again head left into Caroline.  Continuing through town, you'll continue on for a few more kilometers and as you ride down a hill you have a choice of turning right or heading straight through TURN RIGHT, staying on highway 22!  This comes into yet another "T" intersection where you'll turn left again and ride onto Rocky Mountain House.  Unless you have tremendous range on your bike, GET GAS!  I find this is also a good place to stop for a bite to eat after filling up.  Lots of fast food places and the gas stations usually have restaurants.  When I was last there, the weather had worsened but still didn't look too bad.  While I was inside eating, the wind came up, THEN, the rains started and it just poured out.  I lingered over my TBLT (Toasted Bacon Lettuce and Tomato) but eventually ran out and retrieved my rain gear from the bike and brought it into the service station to put on.  Lets see, start with rain pants over my chaps (which of course were over my jeans), then vest over my T-shirt, then leather jacket over the fleece vest, then rain jacket over my leather jacket, then snap shield onto my 3/4 helmet, then tuck the top of the rain jacket up under the helmet, then my think waterproof gloves and "presto-chango", the Michelin Man walks forth!

Leaving Rocky Mountain House, WATCH THE SIGNS, you want highway 11 West!  A one hundred and eighty kilometer run from plains to deep in the mountains.  In my case through a couple of weather changes.  You'll potentially see all manner of wildlife - BE CAREFUL!  I saw deer, elk and numerous rodents.  At one point I arrived at an accident scene within I'd guess about 20 minutes of it happening.  Someone on a Yamaha Venture had hit a deer.  Deer was dead, Yamaha venture was standing but had not plastic on the front anymore.  Rider was being cared for till the ambulance arrived.  This is lonely country and although there is constant traffic, you are a ways away from emergency help and cell phones are about a useful as a rock!  Watch the changing vegetation.  The deciduous trees slowly vanish to be replaced by hardier species of fir and pine trees then they start to shrink down and you realize that you are gaining elevation and riding into a more rugged country.  Watch the road surface, you'll run into pot holes here, there and everywhere.  Generally they're pretty small but every once in awhile they get larger.  You won't run into many trucks along here but you will see tour buses and of course the omnipresent "MonsterBago" piloted by someone who normally drives a Geo and figures that he can handle something twice as wide and 6 times as long - give them a large berth!  You'll ride by Big Horn Dam and a very large body of water being held back by it.  Take it easy through here, you will have the chance to see Deer, Elk and Mountain Goats.  Each animal reacts differently.  The Deer, are generally in the ditch and tend to freeze, they can be there and you won't even see them BUT, if they are spooked, they will leap up onto the road!  Elk don't seem to frighten as easy but they are significantly larger.  They tend to munch the fresh green grass in the ditches and look up as you ride by.  With their size (think moose size NOT teeny deer size) you wouldn't stand much of a chance if you hit one.  Then there are the Mountain Goats.  These guys really like mineral licks, and any lick will do.  One of their favorites is salt from the road.  Come screaming around a corner and you can see a herd of these things strung out across the road, including the babies.  Now, they aren't aggressive and will sometimes move for you but you better be going slow.  Then, there is the notorious "Bear Jam".  This is a generic term given to tourists who have to stop for every Gopher, Chipmunk, Pica (OK, Pica are cute but if you don't know where to look you'll never see them), Deer, Elk, Bear, Skunk etc.  It wouldn't be so bad if they'd just pull over and stop (the shoulder incidentally is more than wide enough to hold a car width wise).  But, they tend to stop in the middle of the road, get out their cameras and start taking shots.  Another reason to keep the speed down.  During my trip, no Bear Jams BUT, the weather did improve and all the layers came off.  Lots of clouds around but still a great day as the temps climbed to the high teens.

Now as you get close to Saskatchewan River Crossing, you enter Banff National Park.  At this point you'll find that you have to stop and purchase a park pass (if you don't have one already).  These can be purchased for a varying durations of time.  I'm not sure of the shorter periods but I think a 7 day pass is around $10.00 or so.  I purchase the yearly family pass for $70.00 a year although if you only go by yourself you can get a yearly pass for half that.  IF you have forgotten your pass at home, tell them that and they'll tell you that you have to purchase the shorter period pass BUT, if you then take that pass and your yearly one back to ANY park gate, they'll give you a refund on the short term amount (max 2 refunds per year as of writing this).  You can't get in without a pass so make sure you have some money available.

After passing through the park gates, a short trip down the road and you are at Sask. River Crossing.  Time for a break.  I always take a nature break and purchase a diet coke (just shy of $2.00 for 600ml) here and relax a bit looking at the magnificent scenery.  Tourists abound from all over the world and it is very easy to start up a conversation.  I always see motorcyclists and bicyclists here and as always they are more than interested to chat for awhile.  If you want a sandwich or hot meal you can get it here BUT, be prepared to pay dearly for it. You now have a choice to make.  If you choose to head south to Lake Louise, you are only 76 kilometers away from gas.  If your tank will give you 260 kilometers (160 miles) from a tank you'll be able to do it BUT, don't try it unless you are sure.  You have a major mountain pass to go over still.  But, if you've come this far, for the extra 50 kilometers North you'll see some of the most (well in my opinion, the most) gorgeous scenery in the world.  So, pay the big bucks and fill up here!

Head North from Saskatchewan River Crossing.  You'll be on the Icefields Parkway (highway 93) and the speed limit is 90 KPH.  But, you aren't in a hurry and you'll get great gas mileage around this speed.  You won't find a single Semi-Trailer unit on this road.  A few large trucks transporting goods but only one or two.  You will find a TON of tour buses.  When I was last here, I'm sure there were more tour buses than cars!  Plus of course, cars towing trailers.  And again, MonsterBagos.  Bear Jams are very popular along this route.  Also, this is a premier bicycling route and you'll find many of them.  A number of bicycle tour groups lead tours through here (I've done this about 10 times by bicycle).  The road surface varies and was quite bumpy for the first few kilometers out of Sask. River Crossing but smoothed out in short order.  Mountains.  Glaciers.  Blue Sky.  OK, time to say OOOOhhhh, AAwwwwww.  Camera out, take lots of pictures.  Hanging Glaciers are perched atop mountains and you can see how deep they are - impressive.  You continue North on the highway and begin to climb as you approach Sunwapta pass.  Now, if you are real lucky, there isn't any traffic in front of you as you approach the 220 degree right hand sweeper.  This is posted at 60KPH, I took it at 100KPH without dragging pegs BUT BE CAREFUL!  This is a guaranteed smile maker.  You enter the corner and slowly roll on the throttle, look over your right shoulder and the corner keeps going and going and going and at the end of it, the climb starts.  On a bicycle you have over an hour of grunt work ahead of you.  But, on a motorbike, you have some sheer bliss as you climb up the side of the mountain.  Watch out for Mountain Goats (and of course Bear Jams).  There are numerous turn offs to check out the vista.  Continue to climb and check out the fast flowing creeks at the side of the road.  As you being to level off, you'll see "Parker's Ridge" off to the left.  In June it is still too covered in snow to go up but if you are there around mid July there is the most magnificent explosion of flowers (springtime in the Rockies in July).  It isn't an easy walk to get up it but if you have the time it is great.  In June, you'll still have scattered snow in the ditches at this elevation but with sun beating down on black leather, you are still comfortable except for....   You are now getting close to the Glacier!

This Glacier has a wind coming down off of it that bottoms out at the base and then heads both directions so whether you come from the North or South you'll get a wind off it (now think, wind off glacier, glacier made from ice, wind is DAMN COLD)!  You absolutely have to drive down to the Glacier.  You'll see markers at the side of the road indicating where the toe of the glacier was at different times this century.  Overall, the glacier is receding.  There is a parking lot at the foot of the glacier and you park there, walk up a path and ONTO the glacier!  BE CAREFUL, a number of people have lost their lives slipping into crevasses here!  Heading back to the visitor center you can read all about the glacier.  You can go for a guided tour on it if you'd like to (buses with tires larger than Dodge pickup!).  Don't miss this once in a life time opportunity.  Of course if you are coming from Calgary and trying to do this loop I'm describing you don't have time to do this.  But, there are visitor accommodations here (wise to book ahead).  As well, there are two campgrounds (but be prepared for below freezing weather at night) and, there is a youth hostel (but book it in advance too if you can).  If you don't have one of those ear to ear grins by now, you just aren't alive!  By the way, if you were able to get to the center of the glaciers here, you would be able to pee North to have your DNA eventually reach the Arctic Ocean, pee West to have it go to the Pacific Ocean and East to go to the Atlantic Ocean!

OK, so unfortunately we have to leave to make it back to Calgary sometime.  Incidentally, you can continue to travel North on this road to Jasper which is a gorgeous small town (I think prettier than Banff) but, it is a further 100 kilometers up the road.  Heading South, we ride back over the same road to Sask. River Crossing but, something strange is happening, the road looks TOTALLY unfamiliar!   The scenery has completely changed.  You are now seeing everything in reverse and you have the chance to see the back sides of mountains that you've haven't seen before (more pictures)!  Oh, and the magnificent right hand 220 degree sweeper is now a left hander - guaranteed to induce smiles again!

Saskatchewan River Crossing comes back into our view and we head past it, continuing South on the Ice fields Parkway.  We again begin to climb and head up to Bow Summit.  This climb fortunately has a passing lane but beware, it ends before the summit, time your passing appropriately.  At the summit it Peyto Lake lookout - check it out!  Riding down from Bow Summit, you'll pass lakes, mountains, glaciers, viewpoints, campgrounds, youth hostels and enough scenery to give you a sore neck.

All good roads must come to an end and this one finally does as it intersects with the Trans-Canada highway.  You want to head East (Left) towards Lake Louise.  A short ride and you are at the town of Lake Louise.  If you haven't been here, you MUST ride up to the lake.  You'll have to park and walk to get a view of the lake but it is MORE than well worth it.  If you have some time, take the lakeshore walk.  The tourists tend to thin out within a kilometer or so.  For a more spirited hike, go up to the teahouse at the plain of the six glaciers and if you have brought your binoculars, see if you can see the "Abbot Hut".  This is a solid rock hut built at the top of the glacier that you'll see from the teahouse!  Coming back down the village, Lagan's bakery in the shopping mall is a popular spot with sandwiches and many kinds of delectable treats.  Gas is available from a couple of spots and is only a little more than you'd pay in say Calgary.  Lots of camping (and hotels) here if you'd like.

But, we are heading back to Calgary, so we have to leave.  You have a choice to make.  How much time do you have?  You can ride on the Trans-Canada with a speed around 90KPH (posted limit in National parks) or, the Bow Valley parkway with a posted limit of 60KPH.  You have a little over 50 kilometers to go.  The Bow Valley Parkway is much more scenic and you are much more likely to see wild critters (but no guarantees).  Plus there are some nice twisties BUT, don't overdrive your vision.  I've seen accidents because folks have leaned through the twisties and come around to a herd of Mountain Goats!  The Trans-Canada will have semi traffic and is very busy.  Between Lake Louise and Castle Mountain Junction, the road is one lane each way but, there are a few passing zones.  Again, you're more interested in seeing scenery so this shouldn't be a problem.  The Trans-Canada from Castle Mountain Junction to Banff is twined.  The overpasses you see were put in there to allow migrating animals to get across the highway.  They didn't like going through underpasses so overpasses have been built.  Lets hope this works.

You will continue along until you get to Banff.  There are tons of things to do in Banff and the immediate surrounding area.  Lots of shopping, restaurants, places to stay and camp.  Hiking trails etc.  If you haven't seen enough Elk yet, go into Banff and take a tour of the Banff Springs Golf Course.  There is a narrow paved road that runs through this magnificent golf course (part of it turns to hard pack dirt but you should be able to avoid that and even if you can't it is easy going).  You are virtually guaranteed of seeing Elk through here, they just love the "buffet" of a golf course, all that nice fresh greenery!

OK, you have to leave Banff to get back to Calgary.  The only way is on the Trans-Canada highway and through the park gates to Canmore.  Keep you speed down, I've often seen teams of RCMP at the park gates (where the speed changes from 90KPH to 110KPH), just catching tons of people speeding up a couple of kilometers early.  Canmore is a great gas stop if you haven't filled up yet.  Time for another decision.  What's your time like?  What speed would you like to ride at.  The Trans-Canada is twinned all the way to Calgary and is a posted 110KPH but most traffic moves at 120 to 130.  The alternate route is a nice road, the old highway, highway 1A.  This passes through a few small communities and a large Indian Reserve.  I feel it is much more scenic but if you've been spending your time in the mountains and need to get home, the Trans-Canada is the way to go.  In my case, as I left Canmore after filling up I saw some of the darkest, ugliest clouds I've seen a long time.  I figured I'd be getting dumped on at sometime.

Heading back along the Trans-Canada I had the CB set to ch19 to listen to the truckers.  They warned folks of the torrential rains and massive hail, just a few short minutes in front of me as I continued into the darkness.  The wind increased.  This section of road is known for a lot of wind and signs posted warning people.  I've seen trailers blown over on their sides in the past.  BE WARY!  As I continued on, the sky go darker.  I made it as far as "Scott Hill" (you'll know it when you get to it, it is the only hill with 3 lanes going up), although the right lane is supposed to be for slower traffic, only truckers know that and if they aren't in it, you can pass all sorts of MonsterBagos chugging up the middle and left lanes.  On this day, I stopped at the top behind two sport bike riders.  Although I had ridden through some showers, I knew that I was about to be severely dumped on!   Back with wet weather gear!  I started out and sure enough, the rain started.  Then, it picked up more and more.  Visibility began to decrease.  I tried looking around the windshield on my Wing but then I just got hit with a ton of rain - couldn't see much more.  I eventually just tucked down low and let the windscreen take the brunt of the storm.  I saw a lot of white at the side of the road and in the ditch from the hail but fortunately it had gone by.  The sky was now dark, black and tinge of yellow - not a good sign if you've been around storms, it usually means electrical activity, increased rain and of course hail.  Fortunately, the electrical activity stayed off as did the hail but the rain increased in intensity.

Then, I was back at highway 22 (remember, the one we took North).  To get back home, I headed South on this road for a few kilometers and then took highway 8 back into Calgary.  All the time through a rather heavy deluge.  Getting close to home I pulled into a service station to fill up and found a small dry spot to get off as the rain continued to fall.  Filled up and headed home.  Rain stopped so it was time to clean up the bike (well, there was the usual rain dirt on the bike but NO insect material of any kind, it had long been washed off).

I've ridden this ride before in the past and enjoyed it but for whatever reason, on this particular Sunday, it was one of those rides that you just relish.  Even with less than perfect conditions, you are out on your bike enjoying and accepting what nature has to throw at you.  The rain, the Venture totaled, the Bear Jams, the potholes, the wonderful scenery, the hanging glaciers, the gentleman from Japan who was amazed that I rode a "Honda", the two other bikers off to Prince Rupert without reservations to get on the boat, and that 220 degree sweeper.  All in all simply a magnificent day!